Spooky Cover

The new issue of Rock&Ice has a picture of some kid climbing an 11c in BC and getting creative with the clip. Someone should let him know he doesn't have to die if he falls if he would only run the rope around his leg correctly. Interesting choice for a cover shot.

Looks like if he blows the clip he'll invert and go head-first into the rock.

Bad fall potential but you never know, maybe he did it for the camera and feels comfy on the route. I just pictured the same thing, flipping headfirst into the wall below if he blew it. Scary.

If he fell with his back still to the wall, and didn't get inverted before the rope became taught, I wouldn't even want to see the potential damage that the rope would do to his groin and torso.

mountainproject.com/v/tony_…

'Nuff said about rope behind the legs?

Right there with you guys. The idea of it has been haunting me for three days.

When I first saw the title of this thread I thought yet another person had covered the song "Spooky" by the Atlanta Rhythm Section, and clicked on it hoping to get a link to download the song.

Oh well. Back on topic, the picture on the cover is indeed spooky, and it is silly & even borderline irresponsible of the mag to use it. That said, visually it is a stunning picture.

If he were to fall: major dental work or gene pool clean up.

Anyone know if R&I has gotten any flak over this? I am sort of the side of calling it a tremendously poor choice for a cover shot, "creativity" aside. Lots of noobs get a big stoke off that mag, maybe one or two might get all monkey see, monkey do.

metrozen wrote: Lots of noobs get a big stoke off that mag, maybe one or two might get all monkey see, monkey do.

Eh... if leaders are already aware of the potential problem, this picture won't risk making it seem OK. If they are unaware of the problem, they won't notice it anyway because it won't seem strange to them.
Worst I see happening here is that this generates discussion and raises awareness. Best thing would be that R&I puts a note out in teh next mag about the danger and puts a note in the "tech tips" type section describing it...
I'll alert Jeff Jackson to this page.

Hi Folks, I'm the editor at Rock and Ice and I just wanted to weigh in on our cover choice for No. 171. I think all of your points are valid. The kid is gonna face plant if he blows it, or at least twang his crotch (or worse, ouch!)but it is undeniably a stunning and memorable image that takes text and looks great on the newsstand or coffee table. How do we balance aesthetics and our responsibility to present safe climbing practices? That's a tough one and I think you all are raising interesting points in this discussion. I'd argue that clipping is always risky, especially when you are at the second, or even third piece of pro. When you pull out slack, you're exposing yourself to a possible groundfall if you slip. What's imperative is finding a stance from which you won't fall and I think that's what Will is doing here. Though it looks sketchy to the observer, Will successfully made the clip and moved through the potentially dangerous situation in the same way we all expose ourselves to "potential" each time we tie into the sharp end.

That said, I'm all about raising awareness. I edit the Letters section of the mag and I'd be happy to publish a critical letter pointing out the risk of Will's stance and a description of proper technique. Would somebody please write me a letter to publish? jjackson@bigstonepub.com

Thanks for the feedback and for letting me chime in.

Happy Climbing!

Jeff Jackson

Thanks for the comment, Jeff. It is a great photo, and it helps to know a little more about your decision to use it.

You'll probably get more than a few letters from the MP crowd!

-DG

What we need are more solo photos!

Caylor wasn't bad; but I was looking for stone nudes, Jeff, not stoned nudes.