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Routes in The Hangdog Cafe
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Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | head crew, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 741 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Jul 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
Try the Crimp Scampi - a nice appetizer at the Cafe.
This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.
I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.
If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.
Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.
This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.
I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.
If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.
Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.
Photos
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