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 ADVANCED
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 Climbers.
Leading the bottom portion of the route.
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New anchor with cable clamps.  A 1/2" wrench can be used to tighten them if in doubt.  Weight tested by a 200 lb rappeller.
Id# 106219007, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By josh wabaunsee
Sep 10, 2009

Way scary.

Who approves this mank?

The over torquing of these cable clamps is very easy to do, as is the under torquing.

As the steel cable ends up with a kink at the rap rings, the strength is compromised. Not to mention the extra surface area for corrosion that wire rope (cable) as compared to chain.

The tail left is way to short.

And last and most importantly the 1/2 of the cable clamps are installed improperly.

By Noah Pittard
From: denver,CO
Sep 22, 2010

Is your view that the left most two clamps are installed improperly because the saddle is on the "dead" side of the cable?

By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Big Sky, Montana
Dec 26, 2010

Josh, your comment on this has always made me super scared when I rap off of that cable. I've done it 4-5 times now but every time I think, "these were installed badly, I'm going to die."

Can you do me a favor and re-apply to add bolts to the route and remove the cable?

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New anchor with cable clamps. A 1/2" wrench can be used to tighten them if in doubt. Weight tested by a 200 lb rappeller.

Submitted By: B immele on Aug 1, 2008
On this route:
West Crack (5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c )
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