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Climbing at Bruce Peninsula, Ontario

Original Post
danpierce · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

I will be on vacation in the Bruce August 2nd - 9th. I have been told that lion's head is a great place to check out. I was wondering if anyone had info on this area. Also if anyone else was going to be in that neck of the woods that would want a climbing partner, I would be game. I only really have a day, maybe 2 that i could afford to break away from the family obligations to do some sport climbing or bouldering. General info would be great too if you have it. Thanks in advance for the help.

Peter Spindloe · · BC · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,390

When I lived in Ontario, Lion's Head was my favorite place by far. I haven't been back though since 1999, so I don't know what the situation is there now. Here's an old shot of me on a classic there:

Entering the crux of Nimbus (5.10b) at Lion's Head. The exposure on this climb combined with the wild overhang make it a classic. .

It's a bit of a tricky place to visit without someone who knows the area since you approach the climbs by rappel. Figuring out where to rappel isn't (wasn't?) easy until you were familiar with the area.

There are a lot of other areas near Lion's Head like Disneyland, TV Tower, and White Bluff that are more standard areas where you walk in to the base, but they don't have the aesthetics of Lion's Head.

Hopefully someone with more recent experience can give you more useful guidance.

danpierce · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

Thanks for the heads up. If I dont find out much about Lions Head I think i am going to make a trip to TV Tower Crag. Do you have any words of advice for this area?? Or do you recommend any one of those other 3 areas that I should check out??

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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