I am sure people who were in Lone Eagle Peak area notice a huge wall on the east side of the circe. If you look at Fair Glacier it is directly on your left. It is exactly west facing. The wall starts at about 1000 ft off the valley floor and is about 700 ft tall and 1500 ft wide. We attempted to climb a route on its right side, found some very old slings (at least 10 years or so..), we got about 350 ft of climbing up to 10+. Does anybody know anything about history of climbing on that wall? I will send photos if anybody is interested. Petro
At least four routes have been climbed on that wall. Jeff and George Lowe did a route up the middle apron in the 1980s. George Lowe and I completed a long route on the right side at 5.10+ in the mid-1990s. I also made a rather pitiful attempt with two friends on a line left of the Lowe-Lowe route. Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey did a right-side route with some aid (probably same start as ours, then difficult climbing straight up where we wandered to the right), and Kennan did at least one or two routes on the left side.
Lots of rock up there, though much of it is typical Indian Peaks stuff: somewhat scaly, somewhat chossy. I think the cliff could be more than 700 feet high in places. Our route had nine pitches, though, as I said, it wandered a bit. I've called this cliff the Apache Wall and/or Wall of Tears, but it may have another name.
There's also a large and difficult ice line on the left side that probably has never been climbed. Strong parties have walked in at least twice to try it, but have not found it in good enough shape to climb. This cliff is exceedingly remote in winter conditions, and it faces west, making it very difficult to find and climb the line in safe enough condition.
Peter, I'd love to see your photos to see if we were on the same route.
Doug, thanks for the info!! Could you send me your e-mail so that I send you photos? The route that we climbed first started at shallow dihedral for about 40-50m (to the right of a big roof close to ground and almost on the right side of the wall), then we climbed right of some small roof, through some 5.6-5.7 chimney, after that we got onto a relatively big grassy ledge, the next pitch was the crux (about 10+), first liebacking and then you go through a little roof (we found old sling at the beginning of this pitch, right off the grassy ledge). Does this sound like something that you climbed?
We put 3 pitons on 2 rappel stations for 50m and 60m raps. Just out of curiosity, how do people look at hammering pitons now? Is this something that one should avoid? Paul, that was a great adventure...
Pitons should be used only when absolutely neccessary. If placed by a competant climber that is skillful in the art of pitons they should not scare the rock much and will provide protection that would otherwise be non-existant. That and with the new cams designed today the need for pitons has decreased but there is definatly a time and a place for a sound piton. They are also a very good idea to bring on first ascents where runouts and uncertain decents are a very real reality. Basically it comes down to respect and an intimate knowledge of the dying art of pitons.
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience, to show you
personalized content, and for statistical purposes. By continuing
to navigate our website, you accept our use of cookies. Read our
Privacy Policy to learn more.