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Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 7
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Routes in Cielo Crack Crag
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Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker |
| Page Views: | 1,903 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | andy patterson on Jul 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.
Location
Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.
Protection
The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.
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