Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dalke&Ament, 1962 ffa-Dalke 1966
Page Views: 7,605 total · 27/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jul 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

East Crack (also known as East Edge) is a fun thin crack through good rock (and not slick, like a lot of Boulder Canyon!). Nearly all of the crux jams are pin scars, so it didn't have that three star feel...never-the-less the overall rock quality makes it worth doing.

Upon reaching Cob Rock, the lowest feature is a 50 foot high buttress with a prominent wide crack, the Huston Crack. This, or the 5.10 finger crack just right, make good direct starts to East Crack. Otherwise, scramble 4th class up on the right or left side of the buttress, go up past some blocks, and set a belay near the left edge of the north face. The route begins up a shallow LF corner that leads up to the right end of a small roof or overlap. Rossiter and others call the corner runout, but the 5.9 is one move to a good hold, easily scoped and retreated from if necessary, and the RP placement is good. Turn the roof and head left into the crack, which becomes progressively harder (with a couple funky gear placements) until a thank-god fixed pin. Rappel from the ledge with blocks above, or continue up and right to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

Bring RPs, stoppers, and small camming units--TCUs would probably have working better in the pin scars than my FCUs.

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