All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area

Black and White Frosted, John and Mary

Name: Black and White Frosted, John and Mary
Rating: 3.3

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Dihedrals Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black and White Frosted, John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black and White John and Mary, Direct Finish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Motor Skills T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	FA: Dave Boyd, Eric Eliason 1970 FFA: Les Ellison, Larry Carrol 1977
Page Views:	9,387 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2005 · Updates
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.

There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cuts left to the Half-A-Finger belay