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Routes in Uptown
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5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Deception T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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PMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Prow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Deception Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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TT's Terror T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zit Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | ccox and H. Padilla |
| Page Views: | 1,001 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Cox on Jun 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking prow/arete with the handrail that curves along it's edge - the business. To the first bolt the route is about 5.7 with sparse gear. Climb up the steep, juggy handrail past two more bolts to a sinker pocket and well hidden chain anchor at the lip. Don't cheat yourself by climbing to the steep lip of the cliff, clipping and lowering. Top it out for old school satisfaction, then reverse the topout moves and lower.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.
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