Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The East End
|
Barn Dance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Roof Burner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Thief of Wives V6 7A PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Jeremy Mariette |
| Page Views: | 2,867 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | chris tregge on May 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is the lone boulder problem at Red Wing, and it's a doozy! Start on a small left hand crimp and an excellent two finger pocket for your right hand. A thin and technical start leads into slopey sidepulls and a slap to the arete. Body tension and a cool head are key through the high crux, crimps and sidepulls to the top. A slip will lead to a long ride to the ground!
This climb is an eliminate. None of the jugs or corner are on for your hands until above the "triangle" of the corner 10-12 feet up. What feet are "on" aren't necessarily clear. I was able to do it using just dishes/smears/heel hooking for feet, although you'll be desperate to keep your feet off the jugs at the crux! Remember, the only person you have to answer to is yourself (and your friends). :)
Bolts were added after the first ascent; I'm not certain who did, and suspect that it was without the consent of the first ascentionist, though I don't know for certain. Nonetheless, this is a boulder problem, not a sport route.
This climb is an eliminate. None of the jugs or corner are on for your hands until above the "triangle" of the corner 10-12 feet up. What feet are "on" aren't necessarily clear. I was able to do it using just dishes/smears/heel hooking for feet, although you'll be desperate to keep your feet off the jugs at the crux! Remember, the only person you have to answer to is yourself (and your friends). :)
Bolts were added after the first ascent; I'm not certain who did, and suspect that it was without the consent of the first ascentionist, though I don't know for certain. Nonetheless, this is a boulder problem, not a sport route.
3 Comments