Type: | Trad, Sport, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Ron Olsen, 9/15/07 |
Page Views: | 8,902 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 17, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Fields of Gold is a fun 3-pitch mixed route on the right end of Treasure Wall. The first pitch has some great slab climbing, the second pitch has a neat hand and fist crack and a steep buttress, and the third pitch is an easy romp to the top.
It's possible to climb just the first pitch, or just the first two pitches, and descend from bolt anchors, if you don't want to do the walk-off from the summit.
Start just right of The Twilight Kid, at a belay bolt by a big pine tree, next to a drop-off on the ledge.
P1: Traverse right and climb a slab (5.9) past three bolts. Continue up a left-facing corner to a small roof with a quartz band and traverse right to a ledge at the start of the upper slab. Don't take the corner all the way to its top or you'll get too high to traverse to the base of the upper slab. It's also possible to traverse right sooner and reach the upper slab more easily.
Climb the upper slab past three more bolts, with some tricky moves (5.10a) into a V-groove. Continue up a moderate finger crack to an anchor with lowering hooks at 100'. If you're just doing the first pitch, lower from here. 5.10a, 100'.
If you're doing the upper pitches, continue past the lowering anchor to a ledge, and traverse right about 20' to a two-bolt anchor just right of a dead pine tree. 5.10a, 135'.
P2. Climb up a short left-facing corner just right of the anchor, and step right to a beautiful hand and fist crack. Climb the crack to a flake at its top. Step onto the top of the flake and clip a bolt on the buttress above. Climb the airy buttress past two bolts (5.9) and continue to a big ledge and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9, 95'.
It's possible to rappel from here:
1. Rap 90' from the top of P2 to the start of P2.
2. Downclimb 35' (on belay) to the P1 anchor at 100'
3. Rap 100' back to the start.
If you're continuing on to the summit:
P3. Climb an easy finger crack to a ledge with a big pine tree. Cross the ledge, move right and climb a headwall with hand cracks to the summit area. Belay at a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.5, 140'.
Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).
It's possible to climb just the first pitch, or just the first two pitches, and descend from bolt anchors, if you don't want to do the walk-off from the summit.
Start just right of The Twilight Kid, at a belay bolt by a big pine tree, next to a drop-off on the ledge.
P1: Traverse right and climb a slab (5.9) past three bolts. Continue up a left-facing corner to a small roof with a quartz band and traverse right to a ledge at the start of the upper slab. Don't take the corner all the way to its top or you'll get too high to traverse to the base of the upper slab. It's also possible to traverse right sooner and reach the upper slab more easily.
Climb the upper slab past three more bolts, with some tricky moves (5.10a) into a V-groove. Continue up a moderate finger crack to an anchor with lowering hooks at 100'. If you're just doing the first pitch, lower from here. 5.10a, 100'.
If you're doing the upper pitches, continue past the lowering anchor to a ledge, and traverse right about 20' to a two-bolt anchor just right of a dead pine tree. 5.10a, 135'.
P2. Climb up a short left-facing corner just right of the anchor, and step right to a beautiful hand and fist crack. Climb the crack to a flake at its top. Step onto the top of the flake and clip a bolt on the buttress above. Climb the airy buttress past two bolts (5.9) and continue to a big ledge and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9, 95'.
It's possible to rappel from here:
1. Rap 90' from the top of P2 to the start of P2.
2. Downclimb 35' (on belay) to the P1 anchor at 100'
3. Rap 100' back to the start.
If you're continuing on to the summit:
P3. Climb an easy finger crack to a ledge with a big pine tree. Cross the ledge, move right and climb a headwall with hand cracks to the summit area. Belay at a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.5, 140'.
Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).
Location
Take the Treasure Wall approach. Hike right up the hill about 50' to a big pine tree on the highest ledge. Start at a belay bolt just right of the tree. This is a few feet right of The Twilight Kid. Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.
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