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Routes in Squat Rock
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Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Elusive Wapiti T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flamingo Road T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Higher Education S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sex Favors TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Temporary Clemency T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Kirk Miller and Ken Trout, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,963 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on Jul 21, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Another of the Platte's near-perfect hand cracks, Lichen or Not ascends a short vertical buttress and is punctuated by a 20 ft 5.6 runout on slabs to the anchor.
Hike to Squat Rock and continue on the trail to approximately the midpoint of the rock. As a reference point, you should be slightly to the left of the Squat Rock summit (a blocky boulder cleft by a 5.10 offwidth) and about even with a tree located just down and left from the summit. Thread your way through some large boulders to the base. As you near the base, you will likely look up and say to your partner, "that looks like a great line!." This is your route.
Hand jams with a thin-hands crux will take you to the top of the vertical section. Follow easy ground and then move left, clipping a bolt before a 5.8 slab move. 5.6 slabs take you the next 20 feet to the summit. A 60m single-rope rap will get you to the base of the climb, but be extremely cautious when pulling the rope to avoid the gully to the "climber's left" of the route. We were less than cautious and ended up with a thoroughly wedged cord.
Hike to Squat Rock and continue on the trail to approximately the midpoint of the rock. As a reference point, you should be slightly to the left of the Squat Rock summit (a blocky boulder cleft by a 5.10 offwidth) and about even with a tree located just down and left from the summit. Thread your way through some large boulders to the base. As you near the base, you will likely look up and say to your partner, "that looks like a great line!." This is your route.
Hand jams with a thin-hands crux will take you to the top of the vertical section. Follow easy ground and then move left, clipping a bolt before a 5.8 slab move. 5.6 slabs take you the next 20 feet to the summit. A 60m single-rope rap will get you to the base of the climb, but be extremely cautious when pulling the rope to avoid the gully to the "climber's left" of the route. We were less than cautious and ended up with a thoroughly wedged cord.
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