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North East Ridge
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.9 from 297 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Craft/Isles - Sykes/Turner August 1958 |
Page Views: | 83,950 total · 398/month |
Shared By: | Chris Owen on Nov 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
A classic moderate alpine rock route of the highest caliber. Excellent rock on one of North America's great peaks.
The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.
The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys (5.7 maximum) to a final puzzling bit up over a block to the North Summit, so around to the right (SW), and then up to the top.
Descent (avoiding the South Summit):
Take exposed ledges on the NE side and head for a vee notch left of the South Summit. There's a rappel anchor here which will take you, with some scambling down to the Kain Route - descend the Kain Route, rappeling when necessary until easier ground and scambling leads to the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. Descend this with caution.
The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.
The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys (5.7 maximum) to a final puzzling bit up over a block to the North Summit, so around to the right (SW), and then up to the top.
Descent (avoiding the South Summit):
Take exposed ledges on the NE side and head for a vee notch left of the South Summit. There's a rappel anchor here which will take you, with some scambling down to the Kain Route - descend the Kain Route, rappeling when necessary until easier ground and scambling leads to the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. Descend this with caution.
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