Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches
FA: Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971
Page Views: 8,348 total · 39/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.

P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.

P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.

Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.  

Protection Suggest change

Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.

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