Type: |
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
FA: | FA: Pat Ament, Rick Warsfield FFA: Pat Ament, Dave Rearick, |
Page Views: | 36,806 total · 132/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Apr 25, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The only reason I give this 3 stars is because the line is disjunct and it doesn't really go anywhere. However the climbing is excellent, certainly as good as many other 4 star routes. The route starts near the NE corner of the Bastille, right off the road and about 50 feet east of the Bastille Crack. Walk just past the first steep buttress (March of Dimes Buttress--about 50 feet high) that lies on the road, 100 yards or so west of the parking lot. The route starts just right of a 40 foot, large rotten dihedral formed by the west edge of March of Dimes Buttress.
P1. Climb up flakes and blocks for 25 feet, then move up and right (tricky pro) to a lieback, right-facing flake that leads to a stance at 50'. Follow a beautiful thin crack that jogs gently back and forth, sometimes taking the appearance of a shallow dihedral. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge about 110 feet up. I recommend stepping left to the ledge 5 feet or so before the crack ends (especially if your second isn't solid--the bolts are not on top of the crack), (5.8+).
P2. Traverse 15 feet left across the ledge to an obvious, right leaning crack/slot (moving the belay if desired). Climb that for 50 feet (crux, with perfect hand-jamming and awkward feet). Belay on another large ledge. Above is the beautiful 5.10c finger crack of March of Dimes; climb that, or traverse off east. Be very careful on the descent; we got cliffed and ended up rappelling from a tree. Possibly go quite a ways east.
Note: many people do just the fantastic first pitch. From the anchor at the top of P1, you can rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. With a 60, you'll have to do a little downclimbing, which could be a little sketchy. With a 60 you can rap climber's left to the top of the first pitch of March of Dimes and then again from there to the ground. Be aware of parties climbing up, if you rap directly down the route--this is a very popular single pitch, and, if you rap left of the route, be aware of, and stay out of, the loose chimney/gully between Werk Supp and the March of Dimes buttress.
P1. Climb up flakes and blocks for 25 feet, then move up and right (tricky pro) to a lieback, right-facing flake that leads to a stance at 50'. Follow a beautiful thin crack that jogs gently back and forth, sometimes taking the appearance of a shallow dihedral. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge about 110 feet up. I recommend stepping left to the ledge 5 feet or so before the crack ends (especially if your second isn't solid--the bolts are not on top of the crack), (5.8+).
P2. Traverse 15 feet left across the ledge to an obvious, right leaning crack/slot (moving the belay if desired). Climb that for 50 feet (crux, with perfect hand-jamming and awkward feet). Belay on another large ledge. Above is the beautiful 5.10c finger crack of March of Dimes; climb that, or traverse off east. Be very careful on the descent; we got cliffed and ended up rappelling from a tree. Possibly go quite a ways east.
Note: many people do just the fantastic first pitch. From the anchor at the top of P1, you can rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. With a 60, you'll have to do a little downclimbing, which could be a little sketchy. With a 60 you can rap climber's left to the top of the first pitch of March of Dimes and then again from there to the ground. Be aware of parties climbing up, if you rap directly down the route--this is a very popular single pitch, and, if you rap left of the route, be aware of, and stay out of, the loose chimney/gully between Werk Supp and the March of Dimes buttress.
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