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A photo after the collapsing of the buttress that John mentioned. Interesting to compare the two. And as an added bonus, it seems that some locals put up a new route in the crack that was revealed. Anyone know what this route (labeled NEW) is called/rated?

Id# 106147060,  Dimensions: 1278 x 862 - View full size 

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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 22, 2008

Don't know what it is called, but we did it a few weeks ago and it's probably 5.11-. Great route on super good rock!

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 22, 2008

That's what's left of Captain Crack. If you took out the bolts and climbed to the rim (and had more rock) as did the first ascent team you might think different of your rating. It was done in '82 or '83. Sad to see gone.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 22, 2008

Man, there's some gristle on that approach!!

By Kangaru Rat
From: Under a Rock
May 14, 2008

According to Bjornstad, the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). Both were climbed to the rim and have been repeated to the rim. The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 14, 2008

I stand corrected. It's been years!

By sam stetser
From: McMinnville, OR
Nov 12, 2010

Someone wrote 'No Peas Please' at the base. Seems like a solid 5.11. Solid rock and great climb but very dirty still.

By Jeff McLeod
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 17, 2014

I climbed the route labeled "NEW" in this photo this past weekend. It is excellent and can be rapped with a single 60m rope from bolted anchors at the top, which are in OK condition as far as I could tell. Going to submit to the area in a sec because this climb is totally worth doing. I will put 5.11- as the grade as I couldn't tell exactly, and welcome others' opinions. I pulled on a #4 through the hardest section, so like I said, I'm not sure what the free grade would be.

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A photo after the collapsing of the buttress that John mentioned. Interesting to compare the two. And as an added bonus, it seems that some locals put up a new route in the crack that was revealed. Anyone know what this route (labeled NEW) is called/rated?

Submitted By: DFrench on Apr 22, 2008