By Jesse Zacher Administrator From: Grand Junction, Co Apr 22, 2008
Don't know what it is called, but we did it a few weeks ago and it's probably 5.11-. Great route on super good rock!
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Apr 22, 2008
That's what's left of Captain Crack. If you took out the bolts and climbed to the rim (and had more rock) as did the first ascent team you might think different of your rating. It was done in '82 or '83. Sad to see gone.
According to Bjornstad, the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). Both were climbed to the rim and have been repeated to the rim. The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine May 14, 2008
I climbed the route labeled "NEW" in this photo this past weekend. It is excellent and can be rapped with a single 60m rope from bolted anchors at the top, which are in OK condition as far as I could tell. Going to submit to the area in a sec because this climb is totally worth doing. I will put 5.11- as the grade as I couldn't tell exactly, and welcome others' opinions. I pulled on a #4 through the hardest section, so like I said, I'm not sure what the free grade would be.
A photo after the collapsing of the buttress that John mentioned. Interesting to compare the two. And as an added bonus, it seems that some locals put up a new route in the crack that was revealed. Anyone know what this route (labeled NEW) is called/rated?