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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Criss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diamond in the Rough Direct T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Disney Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Craft, Eric Stern, 1959 |
| Page Views: | 22,105 total · 100/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.
Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large open book capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.
P1: Climb up the right face of the open book, angling up and right across the many horizontals, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. A second belay is optional here, or traverse right under the roof and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.
Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's quite difficult to avoid severe rope drag if you do this, especially the first time. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.
Walk climbers' right along the clifftop until just before the road, where you can easily scramble down to the base of the cliff and back to your packs.
Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large open book capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.
P1: Climb up the right face of the open book, angling up and right across the many horizontals, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. A second belay is optional here, or traverse right under the roof and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.
Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's quite difficult to avoid severe rope drag if you do this, especially the first time. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.
Walk climbers' right along the clifftop until just before the road, where you can easily scramble down to the base of the cliff and back to your packs.
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