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> Second Sella Tower
Messner
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 820 ft (248 m), 11 pitches |
FA: | Reinhold Messner, Gunther Messner. 1968 |
Page Views: | 6,920 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | e Dixon on May 26, 2007 |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
This is a steep route up the north face of the tower. It is on good rock and follows a line up through the black water streaks.
Pitch 1 - Climb up a groove and then move right towards the black streaks.
Pitch 2 - Traverse right across the black streaks to the top of a small pillar.
Pitch 3 - Climb steep face up to below a roof.
Pitch 4 - Climb up through the roof and continue up a shallow corner.
Pitch 5 - Traverse directly right to a stance on a small ledge.
Pitch 6 - Climb up the groove, then move right under the roof and up to below another roof.
Pitch 7 - Climb around the roof and face climb up and left to the base of a ramp.
Pitch 8 - Climb the ramp, trending up and right to the base of a shallow corner.
Pitch 9 - Climb the shallow corner, then continue up a broken crack.
Pitch 10 - Climb up and right, mostly on face, to the large ledge.
Pitch 11 - Climb easy face to the top of the formation.
Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.
Pitch 1 - Climb up a groove and then move right towards the black streaks.
Pitch 2 - Traverse right across the black streaks to the top of a small pillar.
Pitch 3 - Climb steep face up to below a roof.
Pitch 4 - Climb up through the roof and continue up a shallow corner.
Pitch 5 - Traverse directly right to a stance on a small ledge.
Pitch 6 - Climb up the groove, then move right under the roof and up to below another roof.
Pitch 7 - Climb around the roof and face climb up and left to the base of a ramp.
Pitch 8 - Climb the ramp, trending up and right to the base of a shallow corner.
Pitch 9 - Climb the shallow corner, then continue up a broken crack.
Pitch 10 - Climb up and right, mostly on face, to the large ledge.
Pitch 11 - Climb easy face to the top of the formation.
Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.
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