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Routes in Bridger Jack Butte
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Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hydrophobic Coyote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jack In The Box T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Powders of Persuasion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wild Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ed Webster + partner c.1983 |
| Page Views: | 7,861 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Apr 13, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Wild Flower represents both the first ascent of the Bridger Jack Butte and its easiest route. Besides this, it's the rap line. The route follows flakes and corners for 2 pitches to the notch between the King of Pain and the main butte, and then takes the left of two obvious wide cracks to the top of the Wingate. The first two pitches provide enjoyable sections of climbing between ledges. The third provides excellent opportunities for character building.
Pitch 1: Begins just left of the high point of the dirt/talus in a L-facing ramp with a 4" crack-flake on it. A bolt (not original) is evident perhaps 30' up. Follow the line of least resistance to fixed anchors at 100'. IF YOU FALL OFF THIS PITCH AT THE WRONG PLACE YOU CAN GET VERY FUCKED UP.
Pitch 2: Fun movement out from under a boulder, past another non-FA bolt, to more enjoyable (and more sustained) corners and flakes. Note the rope grooves at the top of the pitch. They look like they could just grab right on to a knotted rope, don't they? A 5" piece comes in handy. 120', maybe.
Pitch 3: Yes, that. Easy chimney to a squeezer, 50'. The trauma has been reduced with the addition of a couple bolts at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks, but you'll still want a #6 camalot before the first and after the second. This, 2 draws, and a #5 Friend should do it; the rest just gets in the way. If you walk the 6 and clip the bolts the one 6’ll do ya.
Location
Ascends directly to the K.O.P./BJ notch.
Descent: single-rope from summit to 2. DO NOT use the old belay/rap anchors at the base of the chimney unless you want to repeat the classic stuck-rope prussik maneuver enjoyed by many; rather, look for a newer set of chains about 10 feet lower and closer to the King of Pain. This will enable you to reach the ground in one 60-meter rap; reportedly a 70m rope will barely work in two raps (see Powders commentary).
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