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Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress
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Black Pearl, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Paul Van Betten, Paul "Obie" Obanhein 1983 |
| Page Views: | 3,937 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | philip Boneware on Nov 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I cant believe that I have walked by this route so many times and never noticed it before.
It is striking shallow left facing corner, which varies from tips to wide hands with lots of variety in between. Although rock quality is a little iffy in places, especially right off the ground (protects well with a #3 camalot) everywhere you really need it good solid pro can be found.
The anchor is OK, definatly not the best I have seen but I have also seen many worse. It could do with the bolts being replaced, and the webbing is looking a little faded. The fixed nut is bomber and there are a couple beiners to lower/rap off.
Juggernaut is no give me, the face to the left is amazingly smooth and the crack pinches down pretty tight at times. As mentioned above there is some questionable rock in places so place well and when you can get it.
A great way to end the day, often in the shade in the afternoon and is on your way out if you are up on Brownstone or Rainbow.
It is striking shallow left facing corner, which varies from tips to wide hands with lots of variety in between. Although rock quality is a little iffy in places, especially right off the ground (protects well with a #3 camalot) everywhere you really need it good solid pro can be found.
The anchor is OK, definatly not the best I have seen but I have also seen many worse. It could do with the bolts being replaced, and the webbing is looking a little faded. The fixed nut is bomber and there are a couple beiners to lower/rap off.
Juggernaut is no give me, the face to the left is amazingly smooth and the crack pinches down pretty tight at times. As mentioned above there is some questionable rock in places so place well and when you can get it.
A great way to end the day, often in the shade in the afternoon and is on your way out if you are up on Brownstone or Rainbow.
Location
Juggernaut is located on the main face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, if you are coming out of the canyon (returning to the car after being up on Brownstone or Rainbow Walls)on the main trail you will pass the Geronimo gully on your left, and the next fin of rock you come to will be the south end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress. Take a faint trail here that branches off to the left from the main trail, and takes you north along the east face of Jack Rabbit Buttress, you will see Juggernaut as a nice little dark varnished left facing corner starting out of pink rock. There are 2 bushes either side of the start, and as of 11-20-06 there is blue webbing at the anchors at the top.
If you are coming from the parking lot for Pine creek the route will be on the left (south) end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress just before you come to the Geronimo gully.
If you are coming from the parking lot for Pine creek the route will be on the left (south) end of the main Jack Rabbit Buttress just before you come to the Geronimo gully.
Protection
I had a single set from 00 C3 to #3 camalots, and a green and yellow alien, also a set of HB offsets #7-11 and a set of small BD nuts. I did not place the smallest 2 C3s. I did use all the rest except only 2-3 HBs and a single small nut. I am a chicken though and doubled up some of the smaller pieces.
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