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Rick Wyatt, first pitch in 1978...note the old screws.... He never placed any, it was too thin.

Id# 106112410,  Dimensions: 1004 x 1500 - View full size 
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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Apr 6, 2008

Classic!

This photo shows some history: The two gray slings (1" tubular webbing using the inside-outside water knot), an alpine axe, some other ancient axe, bunch of ovals, strap-on crampons, the gators, the helmet, and of course the old ice screws. Are those snowmobile boots? Man, bold climbers back then.

By Leo Hski
Jun 2, 2008

The "other ancient axe" is a Pterodactyl, invented in the mid '70s to be swung in the narrow confines of Scottish gullies. Commonly known as a "terror" at the time. It was incredibly better than most other tools of the time, when Chouinard was writing books about how the gentle curve of his picks mimicked the natural arc of an axe swing and educating us all in the French terms for various cramponing techniques. No disrespect to Yvon- it's just a very intererest contrast in styles between the Californians and Scots.

Meanwhile Hamish McInnis put a mean drop angle on a short pick, mounted it to a short metal oval tube handle. It worked superbly on Scottish ice in the gullies and and vertical frozen turf on the buttresses. Also kept the evil forces at bay in Glaswegian bar fights.

I still have one- maybe I'll break it out next season.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2008

A swami belt only with no leg loops....

Yikes! Don't fall. Well on the other hand... it's ice climbing... and in the '70s... don't fall for whatever reason.

By Ty Harlacker
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 5, 2011

This will become great inner monologue for me when I'm bitching out. I can hear it now: "God-dammit Ty, don't be such a p~$$y; think about leading this on nail-in screws, a swami belt, and goldline." ... I guess it's nylon rope, but you get the idea.

By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Feb 26, 2012

Classic Smoot and Wyatt. Probably same trip you guys nailed Bridal Veil in Telluride.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 15, 2013

Amazing to check out his gear, contrasted with what we use today. Bold indeed!

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Rick Wyatt, first pitch in 1978...note the old screws.... He never placed any, it was too thin.

Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 25, 2008
On this route:
Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R )