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East Rock CT climbing?

Original Post
RobR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 10

Anyone ever thought this looked like a pretty nice cliff as far as CT goes? I seem to remember a ban from my highschool days in CT, but it is in a public park so it should be fair game right. Anyways I have been back in CT for an elbow operation and driving by a few days ago it looked like there might be some nice single pitch crack and corner stuff. Would be nice to have as an option for climbing when visiting family. So any New Haven locals know what the deal is?

Rob

Jim O'Brien · · Branford, CT · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 565

Hey RobR,
East Peak is one of the best areas around here to climb, but it may be technically closed to climbers... I'm still trying to figure that one out. The approach can be a drag, but the climbing is well worth the trouble. Hopefully by the end of spring, the East peak section of this website will be updated.
Drop a line when the weather breaks.

Jim

Eastvillage · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 80

By East Rock, are you speaking about the town park in New Haven?
I'm sure that has never been open to climbing.

East Peak in Meriden is great, come spring the town opens the road to the top from approx 9a to 5p.
Otherwise the walk in is about a mile, not too tough.

RobR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 10

Hey guys sorry i should have been more clear. I was referring to East Rock Park in New Haven. Jimo East Peak is now closed? damn that's a bummer it seems this state just can't catch a break as far as climbing goes. Any one know what the rational is behind both these closures? maybe the typical government trying to overprotect the citizenry type BS?

Rob

andrew kulmatiski · · logan, ut · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 335

I've looked around in the park in New Haven and it doesn't look like there would be much worth climbing - its low angle, dirty, chossy and covered in poison ivy. There is another cliff about 5 mi west of town that looks like a great 200+' cliff but it is made of exfoliating slate. I toproped a 165' line there once, never to return.
The climbing at Merimere resevoir on the other hand is great and can be done year round. The rock is solid (gabbro I believe).

RobR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 10

Andrew I think the 200' cliff you are talking about is West Rock which is definitely very loose. And you may be right about East Rock's potential but it seems there may be a few choice moderate lines. It's just a shame that we are not free to go see for our self's. It's not like we would be making a noticeable impact compared with all the trash and broken glass that is around any way.

Rob

Jim O'Brien · · Branford, CT · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 565

whoops, thought I saw East Peak. Stay far away from East Rock- if you don't get shot or jumped, you'll get crushed from falling refigerator - sized rocks. West Rock may offer something for you, The Judges Cave at the top offer good bouldering, and I have heard of some climbing there. I still would stay away from that, rock fall and debris make it too dicey.
Sleeping Giant in Hamden offers some climbing and bouldering, do an internet search and you'll come up with some info.
As for East PEAK being closed... I think the townships put that out to cover their ass from litigation happy citizens- it's CT! The rule has not been enforced as far as I know, but I suppose it could be. If you're interested, you can ask the Ragged Mountain Foundation about access updates.

JimO

Eastvillage · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 80

To follow up on East Peak being closed. I agree, I think it's officially closed so the Town won't be liable when accidents occur. The road to the top is open from Spring through Fall to Auto traffic, 9a to 5p or so.
In this regard, on at least two occasions we were hurrying to get to our car before 5p and leave before the gate was locked and there sitting in the parking lot on top was the Meriden parks employee waiting for us to get to our car before he locked up. He saw us with our gear and didn't say anything about it.
Climber traffic at East Peak seems very light, with only the most classic routes seeing any ascents, as per chalk on the rock. On my last 4 trips there, we were the only party and this included weekend days.
Haven't been there yet this year.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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