All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > Orc Wall

Candelabra

Name: Candelabra
Rating: 2.4

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British X

Routes in The Orc Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Candelabra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Grand Theft Avocado T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Orc Sighs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Orc, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Petty Theft Artichoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Troll, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
Page Views:	2,286 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Due to the unstable nature of the giant flake on this route, the climb should only be done as a top rope.

The route starts in an obvious right-facing corner which leads to a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best.

Climb the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up and right onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach a horizontal crack. Move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature. If you are top roping, the anchor will now be directly above you. If you decided to lead the route, traverse left until you can get around the final bulge and reach the top.

There is a two-bolt anchor atop this route. To set up a top rope, you'll need a cordalette or chunk of anchor rope.

Protection

Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.

If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.