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Mike Schneiter on the 5.7 finger crack on Magic Dragon.

Id# 106110372,  Dimensions: 563 x 751 - View full size 
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 5, 2008

I've belayed from the tree shown here. From the tree, the route goes up and then traverses hard left without any pro, to a belay under a large overhang. There are 2 quarter inch bolts below the overhang which can be backed up with a solid cam (1/2"?) under the roof. From there, the route steps right around the overhang and climbs endless low-angle slabs (with 3 quarter-inch bolts for each belay).

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Aug 24, 2010

Great pitch! Actually, if you traverse to the left right off the belay, you will find a small crack leading up before you reach the dike. Lots of pro opportunities in the first 50'.

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Mike Schneiter on the 5.7 finger crack on Magic Dragon.

Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008
On this route:
Magic Dragon (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R )