By John Bradford From: Lilongwe, Malawi Feb 19, 2008
| The prominent spine in the middle of the photo provides access to the Bypass Glacier. From the top of the bowl, one can just pick out the line that allows access to the Northeast Buttress, and bypasses the first 6 pitches (NE Buttress Direct). The year I climbed this (2005) both glaciers had slid, an increasingly common phenomenon in our years of global warming. This allowed an easy walk from the propeller cairn (top of the wooded knoll, foreground)across the bedrock to the climb. |