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Last pitch of Icarus

Original Post
anon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

I'm very new to trad climbing. I was climbing with a person who said they were very safe and they knew the route. When I started to follow the last pitch I did notice that they put me on belay faster than they normally did and on my way up i looked at them and asked where are the anchors? Their reply was that you could not build anchors on the last pitch of Icarus/Yellow Spur and that by straddling the arete i would be safe.

My question: Can you build anchors or do you straddle the arete?

Rodion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 20

It's definitely possible to build a good anchor there, and none too hard, though I suppose it's opinion as to what's necessary. I personally dig the anchor.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

I remember having a little trouble finding gear there. But I built an anchor for sure.

Pretty much the only time that I won't build an anchor is if there is no gear and I can put myself in a position that I can't be moved out of by anyone/anything but myself.

Hope that helps.

--Marc

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

Anon,

Not knowing the experience level of your partner, and only going by what you've written here, I would think twice before roping up with that person again.

You can build an anchor up there and definitely should. If you fell and where rendered unconscious while they had you on belay and were not anchored above, the situation could get critical very quickly. I'm glad that wasn't the case this time.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Anon, there is an anchor that you can build at the top of Icarus/Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall. You go down on the back side from the top, perhaps 10 ft. Bigger cams as I recall. Quite solid.

anon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies/posts. You all confirmed my suspicions.

Ken, the person I was climbing with has a hand-full of years leading at Eldo (their favorite place). They claim that safety always comes first, that is why I climbed with them. And no, I haven't climbed with them since.

creative climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 0

I had this happen to me too. I'd only been climbing for a couple of months and was with a guy I totally trusted. When I got to the top, I noticed he was straddling the arete but didn't have an anchor. He had me continue climbing the traverse to the rap station and I fell. He didn't move an inch. It was like he was welded to the rock. I didn't really think much of it until I read this thread. Now I'm not sure what to think.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Find a new partner

James Beissel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 905

Building an anchor at the top of that pitch is as difficult as sticking three cams in a crack, I think about #2-3 camalot size. The crack up there is not in the perfect location (about 10' down and to the side as some one else mentioned) but why someone would just straddle the ridge and belay with no anchor makes no sense to me. Even if you were out of gear it would be far better to just go up and over the ridge and go down the other side 20-30' and get a secure stance and belay "au cheval" (sp?).

I think some people like to wrap the rope around the summit horn, also, but I've never tried it.

Luis Barandiaran · · Longmont, CO · Joined Jun 2005 · Points: 135

We definitely were able to build an anchor on top. Large cams probably, although I'm positive you could sling a feature if you had a decent length of webbing. Have that partner of your's practice setting anchors a little more, especially in awkward placements on final pitches or top ropes on cliff bands....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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