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what's wrong with this picture?

Richard Radcliffe · · Erie, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 225
Nate Oakes wrote:Soooo..... what's wrong with it?
C'mon j. We're all ears.
Richard Radcliffe · · Erie, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 225
jeff walz wrote:Trigger loaded over edge?
I had kind of a similar thought. A fall that takes the leader over to the right might cause the gate of the 'biner to hit up against the right edge of the crack (which is offset from the left edge) possibly allowing the rope to come unclipped.
A.P.T. · · Truckee,Ca · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 985

There's no shiny bolt near it and it would look prettier with one.

George Wilson · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2006 · Points: 615

He's got a #1 clipped to the #.75. It seems the #1 would've been a better choice. Other than that, you got me!

CJD · · Chino Valley, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 35

Biner gate should be down and out but that is probably too old school for you guys to notice.

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 651

i think i know. he gave his placement too much thought, didn't he? when you lead a trad route you should just shove in gear without paying too much attention to whether it will hold a lead fall because if you look at it too closely it'll make you worry and your climbing will suffer.

Richard Radcliffe · · Erie, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 225
Jon Ruland wrote:i think i know. he gave his placement too much thought, didn't he? when you lead a trad route you should just shove in gear without paying too much attention to whether it will hold a lead fall because if you look at it too closely it'll make you worry and your climbing will suffer.
Dang. Some 30 years of climbing and I've finally figured out why I'm such a pansy-ass.
Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

That guy placing the cam is my milkman, Frank Henderson, who has absolutely no business climbing.
He is currently collecting on a lawsuit that states that he is crippled due to a customer (me) forgetting to remove ice from my driveway back in December.
He claims that he is paralyzed and can't walk, yet here he is, up on some route, placing gear.
What a frickin' posing liar.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Hi Jed,

Ok, so maybe it isn't Frank Henderson in the video.
But I truly feel that milkmen have no business climbing, whatsoever.

Linda White · · maricopa, AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 100

there looks to be some sting hanging from the webbing by the biner that is facing the wrong way. Could it be the webbing maybe coming apart?

I would use the bigger size cam

Other than that, I give

Leveille · · Appleton, WI · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 105

After 96 hours of analyazizaiton this is the conclusive conclusion I attained:

An utter lack of attractive (top-less) females?

Andrea Cutter · · Basalt, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 226

Whad up, JF,
are you ever gonna fill us in on your Keen eye sight...What does yer good eye see that nobody else could figure out?
Andrea

Dana Prosser · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,585

you place the piece "in the back of the rock"?????

Rodion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 20

Obviously, he's a sissy because he's not placing a mammoth hex, or perhaps some sort of stove leg, in the big pod below. Sissies with their "camming devices".

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
John Langston wrote:I'd whip on it, you bunch of ninnies.
I totally agree. Who cares if it's mildly overcammed and not "FOTH" style? That thing is BOMBER.
Bob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 35

I believe Jeff is going to say that the guy should have clipped the biner directly to the camalot. I have climbed a little with him and he cuts the loops off of all of his gear. If I am correct, he will have to explain the rationale.

Mike Ecker · · phoenix · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 25

I have been cutting the loop of my cams sence I bought my first cam. Its nice cause they dont hang to low on my rack (I'm a short guy) and if I climb anywhere like paridise forks or indian creek I just girth hitch a sewn sling on. Any time I'm multi-pitch climin or anything longer its nice to not have that extra weight or to have lose cams hanging to my knees(like I said I'm short).But to the subject at hand please let us know what you see that we dont.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Frankly, I'm appalled and flabergasted at the apparant lack of common sense in not placing a stick of C-4 & detonator along the stem-line of the cam. I mean what if a gopher should happen upon this crag? Think of the children that could have been saved..

lamina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 50

I don't know how to crack climb but my guess is --

if he is leading, may be he will have his right hand in the crack about where he places the cam....and he will have to put the piece in with his left hand instead?

Or... if he is leading and with his left hand on a hand hold or in the crack, he will put the piece in with his right hand and test pull it with his right hand too?

Or... if he is placing the piece standing on a ledge, then he may hit the ledge if he fell on that piece?

Or, he did not take the other piece off and put a quick draw to clip the rope.... and where is the rope???

Hahaha... just some silly thoughts :P

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,143
Bob wrote:I believe Jeff is going to say that the guy should have clipped the biner directly to the camalot. I have climbed a little with him and he cuts the loops off of all of his gear. If I am correct, he will have to explain the rationale.
Mike Ecker wrote:I have been cutting the loop of my cams sence I bought my first cam. Its nice cause they dont hang to low on my rack (I'm a short guy) and if I climb anywhere like paridise forks or indian creek I just girth hitch a sewn sling on. Any time I'm multi-pitch climin or anything longer its nice to not have that extra weight or to have lose cams hanging to my knees(like I said I'm short).But to the subject at hand please let us know what you see that we dont.
If that's what Jeff is going to say, I'd disagree! :-) BD states in its cam literature that clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2kn. Also, the sling is useful to help keep the cam from walking as much.
For lead climbing, I always clip using the sling on the cam. But for aid climbing, clipping the wire loop isn't so much an issue and gets you higher.

And oh yeah, I don't see anything wrong with that video??? Enlighten us Jeff!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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