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> Southern Comfort Wall
Black Velvet
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 42 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,831 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Jan 23, 2006 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Start at a dead gnarly oak on a ledge 20 ft up the cliff, under a large left facing crack system. A huge roof caps off the final pitch and makes an excellent landmark.
Pitch 1 goes right up a fourth class corner onto a large ledge (unless you scramble this part) and then climbs the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left.
Pitch 2 (crux) goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback for a ways. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Go up one more step to the next level of the broad, walkable ramp and belay underneath the huge roof.
Pitch 3 traverses underneath the roof, some spectacular and exposed 5.7 climbing. After turning the side of the roof, follow a short crack system to the summit.
To descend, scramble east down past a yucca and oak to a chain anchor at the top of Five Easy Steps. 165' to the ground. A mid-point rap-anchor allows one to descend with a single 60m rope. Keep an eye out for these bolts to your left, on a nice ledge.
Pitch 1 goes right up a fourth class corner onto a large ledge (unless you scramble this part) and then climbs the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left.
Pitch 2 (crux) goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback for a ways. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Go up one more step to the next level of the broad, walkable ramp and belay underneath the huge roof.
Pitch 3 traverses underneath the roof, some spectacular and exposed 5.7 climbing. After turning the side of the roof, follow a short crack system to the summit.
To descend, scramble east down past a yucca and oak to a chain anchor at the top of Five Easy Steps. 165' to the ground. A mid-point rap-anchor allows one to descend with a single 60m rope. Keep an eye out for these bolts to your left, on a nice ledge.
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