Smith Rock Vs. City of Rocks in late March

I am wondering which would be a better place to visit in late March. Smith or city of rocks. I'm into all types of climbing and have spent a lot of time at the city, but have never been to smith. I know it's going to be cold at either place, does anyone know average temps at smith in late march? Any help much appreciated, thanks.

The City of Rocks will be very, very iffy in late March. There is LOTS of snow up here to start, and I don't think it'll melt by March. Additionally, that time of year is very unstable with rain and snow likely.

Smith in late March can be perfect. It can also be stormy, but your odds are much better for climable days at Smith vs. the City.

Smith Rocks can be IDEAL in March, where as I think City will be a little less likely to be that great (weather wise - not climbing wise!)
The great thing about smith, as opposed to city, is that if it rains in the morning - you're in the desert and the rock dries quickly. Wet granite (city) is a lot harder to enjoy.
Plus, the Sun Spot (cafe) in Terrebonne has terrific biscuits and you can happily wait out any storm there!
That's my vote.

The City is in the middle of nowhere, if the weather sucks at Smith at least it’s an easy drive into Bend and something to do to kill time.

You may not even be able to drive into the City at that time. I don't believe they plow the road.

1/2 way between the two is a great location that no one talks about, Hell's Canyon. I have not been there in about 14 years but that is where I learned to climb, it is amazing limestone climbing with routes from 80 to 300 feet long. Mostly vertical thin face, with water runnels, pockets, and calcite crimpers. Also in the middle of no where, but it used to be great camping on the river and pretty stable weather. Definately a winter destination as it faces mostly south and there are lot's of snakes in the summer. Anyone else climbed there??

Smith rocks would be my choice over the City, March is about perfect for Smith and if the weather is crappy you could even go skiing.

You may be able to get into a portion of the City from the Almo side. Possiblly up to Elephant Rock. Castle Rock State Park will be open for sure, but has no were near the concentration and quality of the City proper. If you do go to Idaho in late March it will be the prime Snake River Basalt Season. Massacre Rocks(all sport...700+ routes) and Dierkes Lake will be happening. If you go to the City in late March it may be good or you may get completely brutalized by high winds, driving snow. If I had to go with one or the other....I would say completely brutalized. Also the City is at 6000 ft.

Sorry for the hijack, but I'm really curious about climbing in Hell's Canyon. Can't seem to find much beta anywhere and I don't really want to drive clear the hell out there without any beta.

Kevin - any suggestions on where I might find some info?

I've been to Hell's Canyon several times in November (to run the river) and the weather is always great. I bet March would be spectacular.

...and yes, the snow at the City will almost certainly shut you down in March this year.

Cool, thanks for all the replies! It looks like I will be going to Smith, and lower gorge is definitely at the top of my tick list. If the weather forecast for the week is shitty, I'm just gong to suck it up and go to Red Rocks again. Does anyone have any good recommendations for trad multipitch in the 5.8-5.11 range at Smith?

Jacob, Also sorry to be someone off subject and long winded but, It looks like you'll be going right past Hell's Canyon on your way to Smith in March. I will second what Kevin said earlier about the place. Have made 1/2 dozen trips there in the last 2 years and the only downer is the poison ivy. It seems to get worse every spring. You should really try and stop there. Almost all sport, no info or crowds. Just pick a face and figure out if you can get up it without leaving a biner. At Smith you must check out Zebra/Zion, trad. And as other's have said, visit the gorge while at Smith. Fewer climbers and great one pitch climbs.

You could try calling the mountain shop in LaGrande, OR...if it is still around. I had a handmade guide to the area once apon a time but is is long trashed as I have been in CO for the last 13 years. I think the climbing is near an area called Big Bend, and there is a campground right across the road. The PI can be brutal but may not be in by March. Like Norm Said, best bet is to just pick a line. Most of the routes were in the 5.10 to 5.11 range with a few .12's and a couple .9's but there was aroom for hundreds of other routes in the area. It is beautiful grey limestone, and the best limestone I have climbed in the West hands down. Some say it is compairable to Verdon limestone, although obviously much shorter. As I have never been to the Verdon I can't tell you, but I have climbed at about every limestone crag from NV to CO and haven't found anything compairable.

Good luck with your trip...and if you are going to Smith I would recommend the face routes as they are awesome...the trad climbs at Smith tend to be commiting and not always on the best rock, unless you hit the basalt.

Smith is nice that time of year. the weather is always better and warmer in the canyon than the forecast.

here's a brief suggestion list for trads in that range:

Main Area:

Lion's Jaw (8); nice, easier

rope-de-dope block crack (8); ez 8

karate crack (10a); as close as smith gets to splitters in the main area; heady traverse at top--more so for follower

new testament (10a); fun

moonshine dihedral (9); 4 star classic; way fun

toys in the attic (9); only a couple of 9 moves, need a #4

pack animal (8, 2p); first is sport, second trad and puts you up top

Wartley's revenge (11a/b); fun, sustained

Up trail past red wall (less people):

peking (8); 2-3 .75s

On the backside or on the way to:

Kunza corner (10c); beautiful, fun stemfest--never crowded

reptile (8r)
cling on (8)
a desparate man (9); short and fun
{these three are 20' apart on the backside with no crowd}

spiderman (7,2p; classic fun even if a little lower than your range

not to mention the gorge--way lower crowds; stiffer climbing; lots of 10s and 11s

other info:
if you don't have a guide yet..go cheap and get the Thesenga select, $20 and way more updated

also some links:
www. smithrock.com
spiritone.com/~summit/

camping:
camping is free at the grasslands
(if you stay at the park cg, it is $4 a night walk-in {you have to cook at a communal place in the parking lot}. for your $4 you get camping, a day pass worth $3 and a shower worth $2 (so you are actually making $1 for every night you stay there)
....there is an excellent shop at the entrance (redpoint, not hardrock although he does have the best huckleberry ice cream in the world), and the terrebonne depot has good food and brews and is owned by climbers

have fun and be safe

I used to live in Boise and ventured up to Hell's Canyon a few times. The camping is really cool, and the feel of the area is top notch, but there is a reason it is not that popular...its not that good. I think those folks just get excited because they don't have much other limestone in the area. First ascent fever. There are a handful of goodlines, but "The best limestone in the west"... that is wishful thinking. Its just like Verdon except the smooth sections are usually very short, broken, and generally unappealing. The color and texture (in areas) is probably like Verdon, but that is about it. Sure it is climbing, and it is a neat area and yes it is also very very rattlesnake infested (don't forget poison ivy)- but it is definitely not a destination area. Smith Rock is world class, no matter how you look at it. Go there and have fun! It is very unlikely you would get shut down for days by bad weather- storms move in and out amazingly fast in central Oregon.

Thanks again for all the great advice. I've been backpacking in hells canyon a few times with nonclimbers and both times have wanted to make it back there to climb. It looked like there is a lot of stuff bolted there. Theres also a lot of unclimbed rock near riggins, Idaho, both limestone and granite, Which is right by hells canyon. Idaho has loads of great unclimbed backcountry rock!

smith is totally rad in march! plus if you have never been there you will discover so many lines to do! The bonus is that there are many different types of climbing at smith. most people overlook this, there is the main area and the gorge! check it out the climbing is amazing... go to smith.
-john

So there is no hijack a new thread about Hells Canyon mountainproject.com/v/gener…