Having trouble keeping my feet warm in New Nepal evo boots...

purchased a new Pair of the Nepal Evo's and I'm having trouble keeping my feet warm. I think the obvious is when I'm belaying my Ice partner with crampons on. Does anyone have an idea on how to keep feet warm during this time? Has anyone or no anyone that has a new pair of the lasportiva Batura's and if they have had a positive experience with them? I've tried custom footbeds and toe warmers, but what is next? the boot fit is good, not to tight? I don't want to go with plastic boots. I also thought that maybe those hotronic insoles that people are using for ski Boots.

Try using a vapor barrier liner (VBL). Wear a thin wicking sock under the VBL's and then cover with an insulating sock. Work's very well.

How cold are we talking here? I have found the limit of that boot to be in the range of 0 to -10 F. Great and versitile boots, but you have to be realistic in your expectations when it gets really cold (like it has been for much of the past month!). Other friends with that boot have pushed them into colder temps using supergaiters and vapor barriers with pretty good success, but a warmer boot might be a better option if you are going to make a habit out of it.

Some other thoughts on keeping you feet warm while belaying.

- wear puffy pants to belay. Something like Patagonia Micropuff Pants or Mountain Hardware Chugach. If your legs are cold that means the blood getting to your feet is already cold, so keep your legs warm and your feet don't have to work as hard to stay warm.

- take your crampons off, loosen your boot laces

- carry a small piece of foam to stand on while belaying

Obviously, these aren't always an option, especially on multipitch routes

two words: hot thermos (I like cytomax type drink in mine)

I think that I've tried all these tricks except stand on foam, and the vapor barrier. I own belay(chugach) pants, I wouldn't think of leaving the house without the hot tea or drink... So I did the deed. called Sportiva today and proceeded to get the low down on the Batura. sounds like a viable option, and purchased them. Thanks for all the info.

Kevin,

I don't think the VBL's help the cold if your feet sweat a whole lot (though great for multi-day climbs). If your feet do sweat a lot, that also makes them more susceptible to cold, once you stop. I've tried the anti-perspirant thing, without success. You might try that.

The foam isn't a bad idea... a small change, not huge.

Realistically, you might have to go against your likings and get some sort of double boot. At some point, if you have poor circulation, you need good insulation. For mid-winter climbing, double boots are really my only option, having had prior cold damage. You might also look at the La Sportiva spantik's. They're a non-traditional double boot (relatively compact). I haven't used them, but my partner has and swears by them.

Other unproven home remedies include putting cayenne pepper in your socks. At a minimum they'll smell spicy.

Edit: Might also have a look at this forum re: neoprene socks

You could try an analog of Herman Buhl's snowball carrying trick (which absolutely worked for me). Maybe walk around barefoot in the snow a bunch.

I have a concoction of herbal and gleukos that I drink hot. definitely drink coffee on the commute to climbing. Cayenne pepper huh? does it irritate the skin thereby warming them? and Mike, Decaf? I didn't think that was even in the climbing communities dictionary. Tico I need more info on the snowball trick...

there's nothin' like a good pair of plastic boots.

Kevin,

I've got and have been wearing a pair of the Batura's all winter and they are much warmer than the Nepal Evos. The insulation is the same that Sportiva uses in their double boot inner boots and the zippered cover seems to keep the haet in better than many of their lace-up boots.
I've been experimenting with different brands of wool socks and have found that what currently works best for warm feet is a thin/medium wool sock with a toe warmer footbed. This gives me lots of room in the toe box for wiggle room and also means that if I need to I can just add a thicker footbed for added insulation. Fluffy clean socks make a huge difference.

I've never had much luck with VBLs since once I stop walking and go into an inactive belay mode my feet cool down and with the wetness on my toes my feet get cold. Baturas are $500 but seem to keep my feet really warm down to about minus 5 or 10F. I think they are worth the $$$$
I think that wearing heavier long johns on really cold days helps as does wearing two caps, but then I'm folically challenged.

good luck,
JACK

I have the older generation of the Nepal Extreme (before the EVO). I've had the problem of keeping my feet warm as well but have had a bit more luck after moving the tongue of the boot around. I have a rather high instep and found that moving the tongue very high on the strip of velcro in the boot actually lessened the amount of downward pressure that was restricting bloodflow. Another thing that helped was using a different lacing pattern rather than the traditional. This used to be outlined in their catalogs and on their website but after a quick look didn't find anything.

Just thought I'd offer a couple of my fixes. Hope this helps.

I recommend following Jack's advice and buying the Baturas...that way I can see if you like them and maybe I'll get a pair next year!

Mike Willig wrote:I recommend following Jack's advice and buying the Baturas...that way I can see if you like them and maybe I'll get a pair next year!

thanks everyone... as for you cracker willig, I'm sure when we go to cody and we are hanging out drinking rock and rye you in a drunkin stupor will try to jam your feet into those bad boys. here is an idea mike I'll buy the Baturas and you buy the new cobra's... whom ever is leading gets to use tools and whomever is belaying gets to wear the boots. what is the true moral of the story, DEEEEP!

Insulated supergaiters.