Moab area beta

Im going to be in Moab in the next month or two to climb with 3 of my buddies. One of our group redpoints up to 13a sport, however two us are in the mid 11s and one is in the low 10s. We do climb trad, however I am the most experienced leader with 6ish multi pitch routes under my belt. Non of us has much experience with cracks, and I dont think anyone in our group has climbed something remotely like indian creek splitters. Also, we only have 4 or 5 cams in some sizes which I know is not sufficient for many of the climbs. I guess my question is where do we go? I'm thinking mill creek for some sport, and we would like to climb some EASY towers maybe in arches NP. Obviously we would like to climb some of the famous desert cracks, but again rather easy ones. We do enjoy being a little scared, and have a basic understanding of rescue techniques. Slightly runout or scary towers would not deter us provided they are in the 5.6-5.9 range. Also, we understand the impact climbers make, and make concious efforts to leave no trace, and act as ambassadors of the sport. We realize that access and overuse is an issue especially in the moab area.
So Basically, im looking for suggestions.
Anything would help! tips, beta, etc!
Where to go for sport, trad, bouldering?
Anything we need to or should know.
We would be there mid/late march.
If you have any info for us, please let me know. Oh and if anyone is interested in showing us around, climbing with us, or having a beer, we would love that too.
Thanks a bunch in advance
Nikolai + 3 other stoked climbers

ps. BTW what books would you suggest?

Ancient Art would be a top-notch tower for you. High exposure + low grade = good times for all.

Thanks. Looks awsome

In terms of sport climbs, Mill Creek will offer you plenty, especially your friend you climbs 13a. But check out Wall Street (Potash Road) as well. It is just north of town. There are a decent number of bolted or mixed lines, including some very good routes (Skeletonic - 5.11+, Nervous in Suburbia - 5.10a). Wall Street also has some shorter trad lines, so your limited rack might work there. The easiest climbs go at 5.8. Check out Seibernetics, Top Forty, and Thirty Seconds over Potash, all 5.8.

As for other trad climbs, check out Owl Rock in Arches N.P. It's 5.8, juggy, and pretty fun for a first tower climb. If you're up for it, also check out Castleton Tower, specifically the North Chimneys or the Kor-Ingalls routes. Both go at around 5.9, but IMO the North Chimneys is a better route overall. However, you need a decent sized rack for these climbs, including some larger gear.

Bouldering - check out Big Bend, up the River Road.

When you get into Moab, check out Pagan Mountaineering (in the plaza with Eddie McStiff's Restaurant), or Gear Heads, next to the City Market. They'll have all the guidebooks, gear, etc. you'll need. Beer can be had at Moab Brewery, but be prepared: beer in Utah sucks, even the microbrews. How an oatmeal stout can be 4% alcohol will always be a mystery to me.

Things to know: NO white chalk allowed in the national parks (that includes Arches). You can buy red colored chalk at the above mentioned gear stores.

I don't know if many folks are going to want to direct you to their favorite spots - but maybe they will. Generally speaking, it is a great place to explore, there are very few places in the world like it. Get a guidebook (Falcon Desert rock III or I or II, Falcon Utah, and maybe a indian creek book) and start exploring and you'll have a great time. Castleton and Ancient arts are easy / easily accessed classics and good introductions. I think mill creek will be cold in march - and I personally wouldn't go there with so many desert options around. I will be there for a week in march looking for partners. PM me.

Be aware of this:
The 42nd Annual 2008 Moab Easter Jeep Safari will be held March 15 - 23, 2008.
It is very crowded in town then.

Oh...Jeep Safari. You will want to stay the hell out of Moab during this time. The town, and everything around it, including campgrounds, is overrun with jeepers, atv'ers, dirt bikers, you name it. Everything is going to be packed. I've been in moab during this, and if you can find alternative climbing areas, go there instead.

and yeah, forgot that mill creek is so up in elevation. there will most likely be a decent amount of snow up there, so you can probably count that out.

We will probably be there starting around the 23rd.
Thanks for all the input guys.
I dont expect people to reveal their favorite spots to me by any means. I just consider myself a newb at the whole desert thing and figured my experience there would be improved by getting a little local info. I have been doing my own research on the area and simply want to supplement my own findings with a little local knowledge. If nothing else, asking you guys will let us have more fun and remain safer. To be honest, I'm mildly nervous about desert climbing since I have no experience, and just want to cover my bases.
Thanks guys.

Can campsite be reserved in Big Bend or along Potash?
thanks

On Potash or at the Creek it is easy to find friendly climbers who will let you run up their top rope or substitute your rope for theirs before they take down a climb. Top roping some of the desert splitters is a good way to determine your desert crack ability. Just try to be mindful of others in the area and try not to occupy a climb for too long. Personally, I would not even think about going to Moab for the first time and not climbing some splitters. Don’t worry about your ability b/c almost everyone sucks on them at first. The only way to learn the technique is by doing it.

As for camping, there is tons of free camping around Moab, but for that info you’ll have to go explore yourself. For some pay camping head up Castle Valley along the Colorado River and you’ll find several pay options. Some are right off the road, but right on the river. I don’t think you can make reservations for these sites, but I’m not sure.

For a rest day, go hike Negro Bill Canyon. It is a couple of miles up Castle Valley road. It is free and really amazing. Another option is the tons of mountain biking. I’m not much into peddling, but slick rock is a unique experience.