Devil's Cabaña Boy
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
Type: | Sport, 4 pitches |
FA: | Kurt Smith and Ned Harris - |
Page Views: | 5,283 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
This is a fantastic route - the second pitch of which climbs a wild, steep tufa system (the "tufa chandelier") and the third pitch joins with Time for Livin' for that route's crux. Although this could be viewed as an easier version of Time for Livin', the second pitch is worthy in its own right. The given ratings - and pitch count for that matter - in the current guidebooks are all a bit wonky so hopefully this will clarify:
P1 (5.11d): 11 bolts. The big black tufa and jugs lead to a thin face.
P2 (5.12b): 11 bolts. A hard move off the belay (or sneak left) to a powerful crux on edges, then follow fantastic tufas up before underclinging right.
P3 (5.12d): 15 bolts. Climb up off the belay to join with Time for Livin', then interesting climbing interspersed with rests to a final blind crux up and right over a bulge to the anchor.
P4 (5.12b): 9 bolts. Same as Time for Living' P6. Two tough sections separated by a no-hands rest; the second section involves a throw to a hidden pocket. A long runout through a cactus jungle and loose block maze leads to the top of the wall.
Descent: Rap straight down with a single 80m rope - otherwise use two ropes.
Rating this route is difficult. There are Potrero Chico grades and then there are grades in the rest of the world. Perhaps the overall effort required to send this baby is 5.13- (the given rating) but there are no moves on the route that would merit the 13 rating on their own. That said, several sections would be extremely hard to onsight (especially considering the lack of traffic this route receives).
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