Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: ??, 2000s
Page Views: 1,830 total · 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 16, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an entry for the route snuck in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is a bolted line which can be supplemented with a #1 Camalot to start and possibly a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot up near the top. It is a bit squeezed. Anyone know the name or FA?

You can hand jam briefly to get off the ground to the right or face climb (harder) to the left of the 1st bolt. Clip, yard, big ledge. Clip. Delicately slither up the face or stem right in the finger crack briefly. Move up higher, clip. From here, you can try to bear hug the sucker or move left into a crack system or chicken off onto PPBB's crux face moves. Clip again, and the face eases up considerably. Join the top of Fast Boat to China and top out.

If you wander right and left of the bolts, you can make it 5.10, cluck, cluck, cluck. This is the apparent rating the the 2008 guidebook.

Location Suggest change

This route is in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is left of the John Roskelley Show and right of Heidi Hi.

Protection Suggest change

5-6 bolts, optional #1 Camalot to start, sorta unneeded but optional #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot near the top. 2 closely spaced anchor bolts.

Photos

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