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> Monkey World
Beauty and the Beast
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 43
votes
Routes in Monkey World
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Beauty and the Beast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Catastrofarian S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Curious George S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Bars S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shoulda Coulda Woulda S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wave, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Tom Cecil, Justin Day, Brian Cornwell |
| Page Views: | 5,427 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Spaulding on Mar 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
3rd pitch is the beauty, 1st pitch is the beast. The second pitch just connects the two.
P1 - Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. This is also the first pitch of "The Wave." There are two anchors at the top of P1... "Beauty" is on the right and "The Wave" is on the left.
P2 - Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right.
P3 - This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. Don't stop there though. From the top, traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, then finish up on the last 2 pitches of "The Wave." This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.
+++In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch above the "Beauty" pitch, but is not well equipped with out TRAD. gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!
P1 - Start with a couple of fun, overhanging moves out the left side of the cave, then easier climbing on sharp rock up the buttress. This is also the first pitch of "The Wave." There are two anchors at the top of P1... "Beauty" is on the right and "The Wave" is on the left.
P2 - Go up and sightly right - don't be lured by other bolts going further right.
P3 - This pitch is fun and follows bolts up into a small ledge at a small cave. Don't stop there though. From the top, traverse out left, wiggle through a hole in the cave, then finish up on the last 2 pitches of "The Wave." This finish slightly raises the grade, but dramatically increases the fun.
+++In 2006, Drew Spaulding and Adam Weiner established a 4th pitch above the "Beauty" pitch, but is not well equipped with out TRAD. gear. Climb up into the corner on gear, threads and a few bolts. Then tunnel up right and under the stalactite umbrella up to the bolted anchor (this pitch needs re-bolting). A wild ride!
Location
This route is located on an obvious prow of limestone that starts just a few feet from the path (I think it's a road now). Look for a fixed line running down the hill underneath the power lines. Scramble up a few feet and you're at the mouth of the "bouldering cave." The route starts with a few steep moves right above the cave.
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