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All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Crescent Wall > Heaven Can Wait (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
The first crux is pulling on to your right foot in this position, and after that you clip the first bolt. Following, I fell finishing this move when a right hand hold peeled off.
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Moving past the first bolt to the second and last bolt, also a quarter incher. These is the second and harder crux. Greg has a bunch of trad gear, because it's a long way on easier trad ground to the belay.
Moving over the roof on friable hand holds. The gear is to the right with a long sling. You could place gear further left, but the bend in the rope would be worse. The first bolt, which turned out to be 1/4", is reached when your feet are about one foot above the lip.
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Ivan Rezucha
Nov 30, 2007
“The first crux is pulling on to your right foot in this position, and after that you clip the first bolt. Following, I fell finishing this move when a right hand hold peeled off.”  

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Nearby Photos

Gear at the end of the hard climbing. It looks like a long way on just two quarter inch bolts.
Tom Jensen leading up Heaven Can Wait.
Moving past the first bolt to the second and last bolt, also a quarter incher. These is the second and harder crux. Greg has a bunch of trad gear, because it's a long way on easier trad ground to the belay.
The first crux is pulling on to your right foot in this position, and after that you clip the first bolt. Following, I fell finishing this move when a right hand hold peeled off.
Moving over the roof on friable hand holds. The gear is to the right with a long sling. You could place gear further left, but the bend in the rope would be worse. The first bolt, which turned out to be 1/4", is reached when your feet are about one foot above the lip.
The crack is gnarly, unpleasant and hard, so it was a relief to get out onto these flakes. Photo by Greg Miller.
Low down on P1, trying to get out of the crack onto the flakes to the left. P2 is visible at the top left of the photo just right of the tree and ends below the white spot in the roof. Photo by Greg Miller.
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