Crossing the Australian Couloir. It's short but steep. The picture makes it look a bit steeper than it is. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Sea to Sky (N o… > Joffre Group > Mt Joffre > Southeast Face (stand… (4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow)

Crossing the Australian Couloir. It's short but steep. The picture makes it look a bit steeper than it is. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

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Starting the fourth class downclimb. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

Ted coming up the summit ridge.

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Peter Spindloe

Nov 23, 2007

“Crossing the Australian Couloir. It's short but steep. The picture makes it look a bit steeper than it is. Photo by Ted. August 2007.”

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Ted, after downclimbing the fourth class section which is visible behind and above him (essentially, you downclimb the face from the cut off peak).

Downclimbing some the rock above the initial snow section. The loose and steep nature of the route is pretty obvious.

Looking down at the Joffre Lakes side of the mountain.

Starting the fourth class downclimb. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

Crossing the Australian Couloir. It's short but steep. The picture makes it look a bit steeper than it is. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

Ted coming up the summit ridge.

Looking down the ramp (see route description). Mt. Matier in the background. August 2007.

The rock section above the snow.

Heading up to the steepest and narrowest section of the initial snow field. Photo by Ted, August 2007.

The angle is starting to ease off. Photo by Ted. August 2007.

Ted on the lower section of the long snow field. The first snow field (where the class was practicing) is on the right and the approach moraine is visible.

Also from the shoulder. If taking the route described in Gunn's book, you would head left, through through the rock islands and then hug the wall until you saw a gully head up and right (not visible in this shot).

From the shoulder just before hitting the snow. There was an alpine climbing clinic taking place here. It's a good spot for it. The version McLane's book heads straight up towards the notch. It's a lot longer than it looks in this foreshortened view.

The moraine on the approach. If you're doing in via the hut you don't pass this way. Doing it car-to-car, it's probably equal distance go via the hut or the moraine.

The Southeast Face of Mt. Joffre. The variation shown in blue is described in Matt Gunn's book, McLane's is in red. Although they appear to converge relatively close to the summit, it's probably only halfway (from start of the snow).

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