The right side of the Black Wall at Sespe gets the most traffic. When you get to the wall, climb Tree Root (5.5) then Ending Crack (5.6/5.7). Both have good protection on solid rock. One of my favorites is Pipe Cleaner (5.6). It's a shorter pitch but offers larger fist/hand jams and even a few knee jams (dare we say "off-width"?) on clean rock. With 2 ropes you can top rope most of (not so clean) White Spider (5.7) and a good chunk of nearby real estate. Pine to Pine (5.6R) on the right side offers a less clean alternative if Tree Root and Ending Crack are taken.

All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

The right side of the Black Wall at Sespe gets the most traffic. When you get to the wall, climb Tree Root (5.5) then Ending Crack (5.6/5.7). Both have good protection on solid rock. One of my favorites is Pipe Cleaner (5.6). It's a shorter pitch but offers larger fist/hand jams and even a few knee jams (dare we say "off-width"?) on clean rock. With 2 ropes you can top rope most of (not so clean) White Spider (5.7) and a good chunk of nearby real estate. Pine to Pine (5.6R) on the right side offers a less clean alternative if Tree Root and Ending Crack are taken.

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Aquatic, Two-Stripe Garter Snake. <br>
<br>
Photographed in the shallows of Sespe Creek at the base of the Black Wall.

Bryson Fienup (age 6) enjoys a stellar Fall day at Sespe Gorge.

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John Knight

Nov 21, 2007

“The right side of the Black Wall at Sespe gets the most traffic. When you get to the wall, climb Tree Root (5.5) then Ending Crack (5.6/5.7). Both have good protection on solid rock. One of my favorites is Pipe Cleaner (5.6). It's a shorter pitch but offers larger fist/hand jams and even a few knee jams (dare we say "off-width"?) on clean rock. With 2 ropes you can top rope most of (not so clean) White Spider (5.7) and a good chunk of nearby real estate. Pine to Pine (5.6R) on the right side offers a less clean alternative if Tree Root and Ending Crack are taken.”

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Photo: Alex Bury

Aquatic, Two-Stripe Garter Snake. <br>
<br>
Photographed in the shallows of Sespe Creek at the base of the Black Wall.

The right side of the Black Wall at Sespe gets the most traffic. When you get to the wall, climb Tree Root (5.5) then Ending Crack (5.6/5.7). Both have good protection on solid rock. One of my favorites is Pipe Cleaner (5.6). It's a shorter pitch but offers larger fist/hand jams and even a few knee jams (dare we say "off-width"?) on clean rock. With 2 ropes you can top rope most of (not so clean) White Spider (5.7) and a good chunk of nearby real estate. Pine to Pine (5.6R) on the right side offers a less clean alternative if Tree Root and Ending Crack are taken.

Bryson Fienup (age 6) enjoys a stellar Fall day at Sespe Gorge.

Black Wall from the parking/pullout area

A little Shade at Tree Route First Anchor

Early ascent at Sespe Gorge.

Black Wall

Brooke (left) and Drew are lost in a sea of sandstone at Sespe Gorge.

Right side of Sespe - Black Wall. Lots of fun climbs. Send me an e-mail if you want the full e-guide. John

Ending Crack and Tree Route

Black Wall (South East)

Wet Day on the Black Wall

A party from Goleta starts up Ending Crack, during another picture-perfect day at Sespe Gorge.

Love climbing sespe it's a fun two pitch that I usually solo trad climb. The first pitch takes a 70m rope and the second pitch is long, I have to tie my 60m and 40m rope together to make it back with rope to spare.

Erica nears the top of the first pitch of Half Ascent on a cool February day at Sespe Gorge.

Route topo for "McTavish" (5.6), by Yvon Chouinard & Bob McTavish.

Two bolts recently appeared on the overhang near the top of the Chouinard route McTavish, at Sespe Gorge.<br>
<br>
The Tucker/Steele guide refers to two different variations for surmounting the overhang and makes no reference to bolts. If these bolts were added recently, they need to go.<br>
<br>
Does anybody know anything about this situation?

Just another perfect day at the Gorge.

Just Hangin' out at the Ending Crack/Wadka belay.

Sespe gorge soaking up all the recent rain.

The Boyz (Jeff, Matt, Chris, John) after a good day climbing.

Went there today 1/1/22 after a few days of rain expecting it to be a little wet still but instead found snow and ice on the wall and the water was all the way to the base of the wall.

Leighton Bubak climbs Half Ascent, on the left-hand side of Sespe Gorge.

Unknown Climbers.

The Left Side of the Black Wall at Sespe offers plenty of moderate climbing in the 5.3 to 5.10 range. Loose rock, tricky pro, and old bolts make for a bit more adventure than you'll find on the right side. Be sure to check out Half Ascent (5.6) and the Sespe Classic, the Sting (5.10+).

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