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Routes in Pogue's Cave Area
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Blessed and Blissed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buzz Lightyear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Funk Shui S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Houkah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jeremy Fisher S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Labour of Love S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merlins Mantra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Never Never Land S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Now and Zen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ooey Gooey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Party Pogues S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pogue's Arete S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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POGy WOG S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prima Donna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tweedle Dee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tweedle Dum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 678 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Oct 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land. Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock. Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets. Don't worry it get's easier from here. Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge. Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor.
I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.
Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.
I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.
Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.
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