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> Wonderland of R…
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> Central Wonderland
> Diarrhea Dome
> Bighorn Mating Grotto
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 52
votes
Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Charles Cole, Todd Gordon, Marge Floyd and Kelly Carignan, March 1985 |
| Page Views: | 4,287 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Beck on Dec 13, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Interesting face climbing (a traverse in from the right or a 10d direct start) lead to fun, varied climbing up cracks and a dihedral, with some slab moves thrown in. This is an excellent route with awesome moves. The direct start isn't too bad, go for it!
Recently a block pulled off the route (obvious triangular rock scar in the dihedral). It's not at a crux section and doesn't seem to have changed the route much, but there will a little dirt and cruft in that one spot for a while until it cleans up so use caution.
Recently a block pulled off the route (obvious triangular rock scar in the dihedral). It's not at a crux section and doesn't seem to have changed the route much, but there will a little dirt and cruft in that one spot for a while until it cleans up so use caution.
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