Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Bradshaw and Smith |
Page Views: | 765 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on May 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This stout number begins above a talus covered shelf. A steep overhang right off the ground provides the brief crux of powerful and sequential pockets. Beware of the 2-finger sucker side pull at the start that could easily cause a severe injury. Instead use the large but less-deep 3 finger dish up and right. A long move leads to a good jug, then a devious crux move leads to more jugs, and fun cruising on good crimps to the anchor.
Location
Furthest left (east) route in the "main" poultrygeist area. That is, there are two routes on the far left (east) end of this section of cliff (Cha cha and Cock Star), then a 50 yd break with no routes, then a grouping of 8 bolted routes. This route is the furthest left in this group of 8.
Do not begin this route directly or from the right. The shelf at the base is covered with numerous heinous death blocks waiting to assault unsuspecting climbers. Instead, start from the far left, and traverse right onto the shelf below B1.
Do not begin this route directly or from the right. The shelf at the base is covered with numerous heinous death blocks waiting to assault unsuspecting climbers. Instead, start from the far left, and traverse right onto the shelf below B1.
4 Comments