Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pitch #3 (I led) was run out.  We followed the group ahead of us who didn't like the dihedral/left-facing-crack for whatever reason (green line).  So, I went around to the right (red line) and was faced with steep slab (5.7) and ended up ~35' above my last gear placement below a shitty roof.  Finally got a #1 DMM Wallnut placed, so that I wouldn't plummet off that steep lichen covered slab.  Fun.

Id# 106030441,  Dimensions: 446 x 336 

Comments on Photo Add Comment
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2008

I thought this dihedral (the green line) was harder than 5.7, perhaps 5.8 or harder given that there is so much slippery lichen. It is also difficult to protect between 1/2 way up the dihedral and the next crack system.

A MUCH easier alternative (better protected anyway) pitch would be to climb the dihedral to the left of the green line (not in the photo) and either continue with it or traversing back to join the routes shown (above the green line dihedral).

By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Jul 22, 2012

Agreed about that dihedral. As I stepped from 3/4 of the way up the dihedral onto the face to the right, with shitty gear and a big runout ahead, I said out loud "5.7 my ass". That said, moving from that dihedral onto the face was easily the most fun climbing on the route. A bit licheny, but that made it more exciting.

Photo 13 of 23
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

Pitch #3 (I led) was run out. We followed the group ahead of us who didn't like the dihedral/left-facing-crack for whatever reason (green line). So, I went around to the right (red line) and was faced with steep slab (5.7) and ended up ~35' above my last gear placement below a shitty roof. Finally got a #1 DMM Wallnut placed, so that I wouldn't plummet off that steep lichen covered slab. Fun.

Submitted By: J. Fox on Sep 21, 2007
On this route:
North Buttress (5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b )