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New Hard Line on Mt Evans in Colorado

Submitted By: John McNamee on Sep 20, 2007


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Climbing Magazine is reporting that Rob Pizem has redpointed a three-pitch line at around 12,000 feet (3,658m) on Mt. Evans. The second pitch crux goes at 5.13c/d.

Back to Earth ascends a granite buttress down-valley from the Black Wall on Evans, following a 5.11 corner system to a pair of 5.13 cruxes. Other Colorado high-altitude testpieces include Sarchasm (5.14a) above Chasm Lake and The Honeymoon is Over (5.13) on the Diamond of Longs Peak.

For more details check out Climbing Mag's Hot Flashes


Comments on New Hard Line on Mt Evans in Colorado Add Comment
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 30, 2008
By Buff Johnson
Sep 20, 2007

I knew someone was gonna start pegging this area, congrats to Rob. Looks like there's a .14 waiting in the wings.

Not to mention, there's plenty more to be had in this area -- Here you go REAL!

By Nate Weitzel
Sep 21, 2007

Way to go Piz! Nice send.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Sep 21, 2007

Nice Job Rob, way to carry the torch!

Respect

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 23, 2007

So is this on Evans or the Black Wall? Kudos, by the way.

By Rob Dillon
Sep 24, 2007

"Back to Earth ascends a granite buttress down-valley from the Black Wall on Evans."

By Buff Johnson
Sep 24, 2007

I think the question goes more toward where this wall actually is. "Down-valley" is a little vague as the Black Wall terminates the upper portion of the Chicago Lakes basin/ravine/valley; semantics really, the whole area is on Spaulding anyway.

The technical alpine rock climbs here in the Evans Wilderness are really unsung for CO -- maybe until now.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 26, 2007

Mark, thanks for clarifying my question. Rob, "down valley from the Black Wall" and "on Evans" contradict one another, which anyone who has climbed up there would know.

By Dougald MacDonald
Sep 27, 2007

For the record (since I wrote the Climbing.com story), I've climbed on the Black Wall and in the Chicago Lakes valley at least half a dozen times, and I know the area well. I described the Black Wall as being "on Mt. Evans" because few readers would have recognized Mt. Spaulding and, anyway, rightly or wrongly, the vast majority of climbers describe the Black Wall as being on Evans. The "P Wall" that Rob climbed is in the Chicago Lakes drainage, below the Mt. Evans Road (which goes up Mt. Evans), not far from the popular Mt. Evans bouldering. Jeez, I'm peevish this morning. Time for another cup of coffee.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 2, 2007

Hand Jam, Wham BAM!!!

By Arnold Braker
From: golden, co
Oct 2, 2007

It's like a well written tale. Of a lover.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 2, 2007

and a fish.

By Chris Alstrin
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 10, 2007

I think it goes something like "Who once found a fish" Not positive

By Dillon Calkin
Oct 12, 2007

I actually climbed the crux section with Rob (who happens to be my science teacher) last month. There's a 5.14a alternate route up the arete to the right of the 13b line that bypasses a 5.10 traversing hand crack to the start of the 13b section. Really, really, really hard. Sick route.

By Dillon Calkin
Oct 12, 2007

It's north of the Black Wall. You can see it from the road.... Although I wouldn't suggest going from the road to the route, the hike to it unless your going to rap down is rather steep. One slip and it's death. If you end up going out, there you'll see what I mean.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 30, 2008

If I understand this correctly, Piz's route is actually on Mount Warren, and the crag is the dominant formation seen on the approach to and at the Chicago Lakes. Check the photo to be sure.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 30, 2008

Does anyone know the present status of bolts in the Mount Evans Wilderness?