Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: L. Kor, Rick Horn 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith, Tom R
Page Views: 4,924 total · 17/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a combination of the first two pitches of Super Slab, and the second two of Art's Spar. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called Grand Giraffe. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebooks, but it is possibly a full grade harder now. A local climber informed me a hold has broken in the crack that now makes the move much harder than .10c. The line is obvious, jam out a completely horizontal 6' roof. This is a very intimidating and exposed crux. The hardest part is making a long move to the lip will completely horizontal. This section really surprised me (it spit me off), make no mistake it is solid 5.11, I thought it was a full grade harder than Tagger (.10c) which is a similar climb. There is an easier option to the left called Electric Aunt Jemima that goes at .10c, although the pro looks a little friable (#0 TCUs?). The roof on Super Spar is well protected at least.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack. A bunch of pins protect the first pitch.

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