back-cleaned

back-cleaned

Could consider either Flake n Bake or Estralita! Those are both quality, easier climbs in the Sandias. Both seem to take really good pro.

Good God George, suck it up and grow some 'nads!

I think you've been spending way too much time this summer clipping bolts. I think the majority of us old guys lead all of the northern NM cracks even before the 1st bolt showed up! Sorry, can't think of a trad line in northern NM that meets your criteria (a gear placement every 3 feet).

Hey, by the way are you still available this weekend to lead me up "Second Coming"?

Tony is right on. I used Flake N Bake as an intro climb for my GF and another climber. The gear is excellent & straightforwatd, and the climbing is about as easy as you will find anywhere.

My first trad lead was Open Book at the Y in White Rock in about '83. It's been a long time since I lead anything at the Y but I think the pro was no problem at the time and there are plenty of stances between the harder moves. Not sure what the rating is these days. I think it was 5.6 back then. Also the climb just to the right of Pillars of Hercules at Potrillo is pretty easy with plenty of cracks.

Oh, and while I enjoy plenty of sport climbing, anyone bolting a line that has trad gear should be shot. ;-)

john keller

As a girl, I'd say the best place to go to get started Trad leading in White Rock is Potrillo. There are some really nice and really easy cracks on the eastern side of the crag. To the right of the big cave, that is. I think some of those little cracks could easily be considered 5.4 to 5.6, and the stances are such that you won't feel like you're going to peel at any moment.

If she gets more cocky (and good for her for doing so, in my opinion), she can try the Pillars of Hercules, and some of the other 5.7s and 5.8s down there, those climbs will make you think, maybe make you quake a little, and generally pump out the beginning trad leader.

Good luck, and make sure she practices setting gear down low BEFORE setting out on lead--that way you can assess whether she will get your cams or nuts stuck before she leaves the ground. That is, let her practice placing gear before she ever harnesses up--the best lesson I have ever had!

Ciao!