Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft (20 m) Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Kevin Gallagher
Page Views: 4,467 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kevin Gallagher on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Wishbone climbs the vertical and exposed, south-facing wall overlooking the creek at the very end of the West Ridge. The route was originally attempted as a headpoint and can be led by the bold with minimal and hard-to-find gear at 5.11b/c X. This is a safe, Eldo-style bolted route with exceptionally technical face climbing and a thought-provoking finish. From the belay, step down and right to an instantly exposed start and the first bolt around the face. Climb up and right through 3 bolts to the big flake, place a piece then move right then up to the 4th bolt. Climb up through the technical vertical face clipping the 5th and 6th bolts, followed by the crux and the thrilling finish. This is a wonderfully exposed climb with classic, technical face and one of the most scenic belays in the canyon. Enjoy!

Location Suggest change

See directions to Amphitheater on page 232 of Eldorado guide. Shares the belay with Wild Turkey and Kickin' Chicken located approx. 40ft right of the Blues Power/Wingshot alcove. Follow the broken band right and down to an exposed belay overlooking the creek. This is one of the best belay spots in the canyon with lots of sun (good in winter) and great exposure.

Protection Suggest change

There are 6 bolts and anchors with an additional finger-sized cam or medium-sized nut placed between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Bring a #3 Camalot and #2 Friend to supplement the fixed nut for the belay.

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