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GPS: 35.8052, -106.139
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Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
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Description Suggest change

The routes at the Poultrygeist area tend to be a little more diverse than those on in the Chicken Little Area, with more pockets, overhangs, some jugs, and some exciting stemming. I thought the routes actually tended to be more fun here, in general. The routes range from low 5.10 to 5.12a.

Getting There Suggest change

See
. Head right from the top of the trail at Chicken Little area, heading along the base of the cliffs until you get past a chossy area of rock to nice stone again.

Routes

Suggest change
Walking toward the right from the Chicken Little Area, you will come across two routes in nice rock. It will be an obvious break from the choss. These first two routes are (left to right):

Chicken Cha Cha (5.10d)
Cock Star (5.11c)

Continuing right along the path, you will come upon a series of other routes. Again, from left to right, these routes are:

Cockwork Orange (5.10d)
Finger Lichen Good (5.10a)
Stunt Cock (5.12a)
Chicken Out (5.10c)
Cock-a-Doodle-Do (5.11c)
Chicken Fingers (5.10c), Trad
Poultrygeist (5.11a)
Chicks with Ricks (5.10c)
Crack L of Cockeyed (5.9), Trad
Cockeyed (5.10c), See note below
Fowl Play (5.11a), See note below

NOTE: Cockeyed and Fowl Play are both rated incorrectly in Beverly's Jemez Rock, as both are listed as 5.8. The ratings above more correctly represent the difficulties of the climbs and also are the ratings in Rick Bradshaw's online guide.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Poultrygeist Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
● Finger Lichen Good
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Cockeyed
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
● Chicken Out
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
● Chicks with Ricks
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
● Chicken Cha Cha
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Poultrygeist
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
● Fowl Play
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
● Cockwork Orange
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Cock-a-Doodle-Do
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
● Stunt Cock
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Finger Lichen Good
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Cockeyed
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Chicken Out
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Chicks with Ricks
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Chicken Cha Cha
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Poultrygeist
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Fowl Play
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Cockwork Orange
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Cock-a-Doodle-Do
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Stunt Cock
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Poultrygeist Area »

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Photos

Finishing up the route going from the last bolt to the anchors. April 2009.
Finishing up the route going from the last bolt…
 5

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