Hans Steykal and I climbed the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal-Rothorn starting at the notch about the mid point in the ridge (28 pitches, IV, 5.7). Crux is in chimney on north side above 13,000 feet. Approach from the Rothorn Hutte involved crossing 3 glaciers, 1 tricky Bergshrund and 4th Class rock. We descended the normal route (Southeast Ridge), which comes towards you in the picture. Our time hut to hut was 14 hrs. Epic descent hike (on rubbery legs after eating a meal) back to Zermatt occurred because we had to be in Chamonix the next day (7/90). Photo was taken from the summit of the Riffelhorn, which I soloed the day before and the same day Hans and I hiked up to the Rothorn Hutte. I had younger legs back then.

Paul Huebner > A few pics from a few…

Hans Steykal and I climbed the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal-Rothorn starting at the notch about the mid point in the ridge (28 pitches, IV, 5.7). Crux is in chimney on north side above 13,000 feet. Approach from the Rothorn Hutte involved crossing 3 glaciers, 1 tricky Bergshrund and 4th Class rock. We descended the normal route (Southeast Ridge), which comes towards you in the picture. Our time hut to hut was 14 hrs. Epic descent hike (on rubbery legs after eating a meal) back to Zermatt occurred because we had to be in Chamonix the next day (7/90). Photo was taken from the summit of the Riffelhorn, which I soloed the day before and the same day Hans and I hiked up to the Rothorn Hutte. I had younger legs back then.

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Ascent of Mt. Sturdee. After ascending the Southeast Couloir, a short traverse to the northeast brings you to the start of a full rope pitch of easy rock (5.5) with one horn to sling for pro. P2 goes up a wide (5.4) chimney that tops out right below the summit. To descend we down-climbed the chimney and set up a rap that brings you back down to where you can traverse back to the southeast couloir. Approach from high camp is up and over the Assiniboine-Strom Col and then down to and across Icefield, and then south up along the East Ridge of Mt. Asinniboine to the Assiniboine-Sturdee Col. Cross the col over to the hidden couloir (8/91). <br>
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Petit du Cheval is the formation on the left and 5.8 route named Spontaneity Ridge follows the right edge of the formation just left of the rock slide gully (8/04).

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Paul Huebner

Aug 15, 2007

“Hans Steykal and I climbed the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal-Rothorn starting at the notch about the mid point in the ridge (28 pitches, IV, 5.7). Crux is in chimney on north side above 13,000 feet. Approach from the Rothorn Hutte involved crossing 3 glaciers, 1 tricky Bergshrund and 4th Class rock. We descended the normal route (Southeast Ridge), which comes towards you in the picture. Our time hut to hut was 14 hrs. Epic descent hike (on rubbery legs after eating a meal) back to Zermatt occurred because we had to be in Chamonix the next day (7/90). Photo was taken from the summit of the Riffelhorn, which I soloed the day before and the same day Hans and I hiked up to the Rothorn Hutte. I had younger legs back then.”

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Somewhere in the Yukon between Haines and Haines Jct., Alaska (7/01). <br>
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Another rope team ascending Glacier Dome in the Purcells, British Columbia (8/88).<br>
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Summit of the Petit Du Cheval with view of the Liberty Bell Massif (8/04). <br>
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Flying into Wrangell/St. Elias to climb Mt. Bona (5/02).<br>
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