Type: | Sport, TR |
FA: | Hanson & Sills, 1990? |
Page Views: | 2,460 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Darin Lang on Apr 29, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2022
Details
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
Description
Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area. Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood. This is a perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim.
Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go.
The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip. Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two. There are two good bolts on top.
Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go.
The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip. Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two. There are two good bolts on top.
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