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The Best Steep Juggy U.S. Area

Original Post
Rick Shull · · Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 3,015

Let's hear it. What area in the U.S. do you recommend for the biggest concentration of thuggy, big-move routes. No crimps, just straight up, keep it movin' or pump out kind of stuff.

Eddie Avallone · · Lewisburg, WV · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 100

The Red River Gorge, hands down. Thousands of jug hauls.

ropeless420 · · evergreen , co. · Joined May 2006 · Points: 0

priest draw in flagstaff az. just steep powerful pocket pullin.

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
rickd wrote:Stone Mountain NC?
hahaha!!

JL
Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Maple.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
rickd wrote:Stone Mountain NC?
That's funny. But, how 'bout Moores Wall?

I'd ditto RRG. HCR in Arkansas too.
Dave-o Friedman · · Fort Collins · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

Rifle Colorado

James Beissel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 905

Undoubtedly the Red River Gorge.

Jeff Mekolites · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 5,250

Red River Gorge..."the biggest holds you'll ever fall off of"

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Jeff Mekolites wrote:Red River Gorge..."the biggest holds you'll ever fall off of"
Yep.





Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505

Red River Gorge, no doubt.



Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505
ropeless420 wrote:priest draw in flagstaff az. just steep powerful pocket pullin.
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

For trad climbing:
Hawksbill Mountain, NC
Shortoff Mountain, NC
Gargantuon horizontals every few feet!

No pics, maybe somebody else can post them up?

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

I'm kind of surprised nobody's mentioned the Gunks, although routes there tend to be at about 5.10, and not too many jugs on the .11's. Still, not too many places where you can have overhanging 5.4.

scoTt Millbern · · Langenfeld, DE · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,500
Nick Stayner wrote:For trad climbing: Hawksbill Mountain, NC Shortoff Mountain, NC Gargantuon horizontals every few feet! No pics, maybe somebody else can post them up?
Hawksbill eh? Hmm.. how is it climbing there this time of year? Heading to Table Rock this weekend, might have to make a stop.

Is there anything in the 5.8-5.9 range there? Current book shows little (not surprisingly)

I have been really jonesing for the sweet jugs of Stone Mtn, but persons better than me have been keeping me away this summer. Can't wait till cooler weather!

scoTt
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Not much in the 5.8/9 range at Hawksbill. It does have a nice northern exposure, so the temps are doable this time of year.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Dierkies lake in Idaho, supposedly has the steepest 5.10 in the country

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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