Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975 |
Page Views: | 10,801 total · 50/month |
Shared By: | Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.
Protection
Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.
Testpiece
This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.
11 Comments